If you’ve ever walked around in a Taipei night market, you’ve probably basked in all sorts of savory and delicious smells. But chances are, you’ve inevitably stumbled on the pungent odor coming from the stinky tofu stall.
True to it’s name, the Taiwanese stinky tofu is as stinky as it gets. But at the same time, it’s one of the most iconic and popular Taiwanese dishes in these night markets. But what makes this street food so…legendary?
Read on to learn where the stinky tofu originated from, how it gets its smell, the different types of stinky tofu and everything else you wanted to know. Plus, we’ve tried and found the best stinky tofus in Taipei!
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Table of Contents
What is Taiwan Stinky Tofu?
It’s not a complicated food. The name explains it all. Stinky tofu is literally tofu that stinks. But while some people can’t stand the smell, others can’t get enough of it. It’s really an acquired taste and smell. In Mandarin, it’s called “chou dou fu“ – directly translating to stinky tofu.
Stinky tofu is essentially fermented tofu. The process starts with brine (salt water), along with bamboo shoots, shelled shrimp and Chinese green cabbage mixed into wide jars. The jars are then exposed to air for month to allow for the bacteria to ferment.
Only after the fermentation process, bricks of tofu are soaked for 4 to 6 hours in container jars, resulting in the unique “stink” of Taiwanese stinky tofu. So despite how quickly it’s served in night markets, the process of creating this dish takes a long time of preparation.
Depending on how the stinky tofu is served, the tofu is generally accompanied by with a thick garlic sauce, chili sauce and sometimes with a side of pickled cabbage. Different vendors will have their own variation, but the extras help balance out the pungent flavor.
What Does Stinky Tofu Smell Like?
There’s a lot of room for interpretation of the stinky tofu odor. From a distance, the tofu smell is often described as that of wet stocks or smelly feet. Others have compared it to slightly-expired blue cheese or rotten meat.
As you can tell, it’s hard describing the smell of Taiwanese stinky tofu. Every person will have their own comparison, but the only way to know is to try it (or just smell it) for yourself.
Types of Stinky Tofu
There are many versions of stinky tofu. However, Taiwanese stinky tofu is primarily served in three ways: steamed, stewed or deep-fried. All are great and worth trying, but my favorite is the deep-fried. Plus, it’s no coincidence that deep-fried is also the most popular way of eating stinky tofu.
If you’ve never tried stinky tofu, I recommend trying all three. Or at the very least, the steamed and deep-fried stinky tofu. But let’s dive into each type and the reasons why you should try each one.
Fried Stinky Tofu
Fried is by far my favorite. And when foreigners first try Taiwanese stinky tofu, I always recommend the fried first. It’s not because I like it the most, but because it’s the least pungent. Thus, the “easiest” to eat.
The fried variation is also the most popular at the night markets and it’s almost always served with pickled cabbage and garlic sauce. You’ll also have the option for chili sauce, which I highly recommend if you can take the extra heat.
The outer layer of crunchiness creates a unique texture of both crispy and soft. Stinky tofu is just that wonderful when fried. After all, the Taiwanese love their fried foods, especially at the night markets.
Steamed Stinky Tofu
On the other side of the spectrum, the steamed stinky tofu may be the most pungent. Because this tofu is steamed, the flavor is better absorbed into the tofu. But for the Taiwan stinky tofu lover, this is pure heaven.
Most of the time, you’ll also have the option of garlic, chili sauce and pickled cabbage. Always consume with it, as it’ll provide a more balanced taste. I don’t always recommend this for first timers, but if that’s your only option, I definitely would give it a try.
Stewed Stinky Tofu
Perhaps the least popular among foreigners, the stewed stinky tofu is this classic Taiwanese dish in a thick soup. The base can vary, but my favorite is the mala stinky tofu. It’s a must eat if you enjoy spicy foods!
Mala stinky tofu is Taiwan stinky tofu in a spicy broth. It’s wildly popular with the locals and the spicy flavor of the broth really helps mask the smell and taste of the tofu. Whenever I’m able to find this, I always go for a bowl of this stewed tofu.
The History of Stinky Tofu
Taiwan is known for their stinky tofu. In fact, it’s probably the single most iconic street food dish from the food-loving country. But did you know, this dish actually originated from mainland China?
That’s right. Taiwanese stinky tofu was actually Chinese stinky tofu. And according to Chinese folklore, the famous dish was invented by a scholar, named Wang Zhihe (王致和) during the Qing Dynasty.
Legend says Wang failed his imperial examination and his dreams of serving in the state bureaucracy was crushed. So instead, he made a living by selling tofu on the streets. But Wang didn’t start off selling stinky tofu.
Less successful than he had hoped, his tofu business was slowly failing. Before he knew it, Wang was stuck with a large quantity of unsold tofu. He didn’t know what to do but put it into an earthen jar. He forgot about it and upon coming back to it days after, the tofu turned green.
To his surprise, it tasted delicious. At least, a lot more than it smelled. Wang decided to start selling this “stinky” tofu and became an instant hit. It was so successful that it was eventually served at the Imperial Palace among royalty.
Since then, the Taiwanese have made stinky tofu their own. Through hundreds of years of practice and serving, the people of Taiwan created a more flavorful and dare I say, much better stinky tofu. I mean, when’s the last time you heard anyone say “Chinese stinky tofu?”
Best Stinky Tofu in Taipei
There’s a lot of heated debate over the best stinky tofu in Taiwan. I’ll admit, I’ve never tried every stinky tofu in Taipei, let alone the country. But I can tell you what I (and so many others) believe are the best.
Stinky Tofu Boss
Location: Nanjichang Night Market
Believe it or not, the humble Stinky Tofu Boss in Nanjichang Night Market was recognized by Michelin as part of their Michelin Bib Gourmand list. In terms of street food, there is no better honor than this.
You already know I’m not a huge fan of steamed stinky tofu, but if I had to eat it, it would be at Stinky Tofu Boss. The tofu itself is very porous, which is great if you love the stinky tofu flavor. Personally, I think it’s a bit strong.
But what makes it special is the addition of the mushrooms and basil, which give it a unique flavor unlike any other. With recognition from Michelin, it’s definitely worth trying. But if it’s your first time, maybe try a fried tofu instead.
Yi Kou Jin Su
Location: Tonghua Night Market
This is my favorite, and also a favorite among locals. But Michelin doesn’t even think it’s the best tofu in the same night market. Located on the east side of Tonghua Night Market, Tien Hsiang Stinky Tofu takes the grand honor of being on Michelin’s Bib Gourmand list.
However, Yi Kou Jin Su is my all-time favorite fried stinky tofu. It’s located in the middle of Tonghua market at the main intersection of Linjiang and Tonghua street. And according to my local friends, it’s been there for as long as they’ve been alive.
Fried and served with Taiwanese BBQ sauce, pickled cabbage and chili sauce, this Taiwanese stinky tofu is a classic. A huge reason why I love it is because the signature stinky smell isn’t as strong as with others. Though there’s always a line, this dish is served extremely quickly.
If you’re just getting your feet wet with Taiwanese stinky tofu, I recommend coming here first. It’s easy to find, very delicious and it’s one of the best examples of Taiwan’s infamous street dish.
Stinky Tofu: Try or Not?
Growing up in a Taiwanese-American family, I would hate it every time my mom cooked it. I remember my sister and I would lock ourselves in our rooms whenever she did. Fast forward a couple decades and now I never leave a night market without grabbing some.
If you’re visiting Taiwan, especially Taipei, it would be a disservice to leave without trying stinky tofu. It’s unique, savory, iconic and something that you’d likely wouldn’t be able to find anywhere else.
Sure, you can find it in mainland China, Malaysia, Singapore or Hong Kong, but it won’t taste like the ones in Taiwan. And while it may not be the most healthy dish, what is in a Taiwanese night market?
It’s definitely an acquired taste (and smell). But once you try it, stinky tofu will have you craving to go back to Taiwan.
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