Penghu Island - A Guide to Taiwan's Beautiful Hidden Gem

Taiwan is undeniably one of the most diverse island in East Asia. But did you know that there are several smaller islands that lie off the coast of the country? There’s the divers-paradise Green Island, the fishing hub Orchid Island and of course, the hidden gem – Penghu Island.

While there are a total of 166 islands off the coast of Taiwan, there are just 13 major Taiwanese islands. In addition, Penghu Island isn’t technically a single island. Rather, Penghu is an archipelago of 90 small islands situated in the Taiwan Strait.

Unfortunately, most of the smaller islands are not accessible by a tour boat. As you can imagine, some islands are so small that you wouldn’t be able to do much on there. However, there are 6 main components of Penghu Island: Hujing Island, Magong, Baisha, Siyu, Cimei and Wang-an.

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History of Penghu Island

The origins and history of Penghu can be traced back thousands of years. When archaeologists dug up ancient artifacts from Penghu, they discovered that these islands were inhabited by humans roughly 5,000 years ago! They were likely immigrants from the southeast coast of China prior to the Northern Song Dynasty in AD 998.

In the Southern Song Dynasty, there is evidence pointing to Penghu being a fishing hub. Even until today, the island remains a base for fishing activities. And if you’re interested, there are a few options for local fishing charters and boat tours that you can take.

During the Ming Dynasty of the 15th century, a maritime ban forced local residents of Penghu to evacuate. Shortly after, the restrictions were removed and the fishing community was firmly reestablished as a booming industry.

In this period, Penghu Island (along with Taiwan) was colonized by the Dutch. However, after the Dutch were defeated by the Portuguese in the Battle of Macau (1622), the Portuguese took control of Penghu. They strategically built a fort on the island in hopes of pressuring China into trading with them.

The Battle of Penghu

Shortly after the Ming Dynasty was overthrown, a group of loyalists established the Kingdom of Tungning in Taiwan. The rogue government’s sole mission was to overthrow the Manchu-led Qing Dynasty. So in 1683, the deciding naval battle was fought on Penghu Island.

It’s estimated that each side had over 200 warships they took to the sea. But with a crucial mistake, the Tungning admiral maneuvered into a fatal situation which had his troops severely outnumbered. Needless to say, the Tungning forces quickly ran out of ammunition and surrendered.

The General of the Tungning fleet contemplated suicide before being stopped by Shi Lang, the commander of the Qing’s forces. Though they agreed on peace, it was obvious that Taiwan and the remaining of the Tungning’s land forces were defenseless. They officially surrendered, thus officially ending the Tungning Kingdom.

Best Things to Do in Penghu

As the second smallest county in Taiwan, Penghu County may seem like a boring place to visit. However, it’s quite the opposite. There are plenty of amazing nature attractions you can find on Penghu.

Though tourism wasn’t established until the 1990’s, it’s currently the biggest money maker for the county. Fishing has been limited, but tourists can’t help but explore the beautiful island.

Twin Heart Stone Weir

The Twin Hearts Stone Weir is without question, one of the most famous attractions on Penghu Island (if not the most!). On a good summer day, expect to see a flock of crowd admiring this remarkable work of ancient local fishermen.

It’s exactly as the name suggests, a fishing weir made of stacked stones that resemble the shape of two adjacent hearts. The purpose of the weir is to direct unsuspecting fish that swim towards the shallows and ultimately trap them in the enclosure during low tide.

You may see several fishing weirs on the island, but the Twin Hearts is by far the most unique and well preserved (considering the age). Low tide is the best time to see the attraction. However, depending on the lunar calendar, the best time can vary.

We went during the early afternoon. Though it was in the process of transitioning to high tide, the sight was still clear as day and beautiful to see. Also, there’s really not much to do here other than the main attraction. Just enjoy the view and take a few pictures.

There is a small vendor area where you can buy some refreshments, snacks and cheap souvenirs. Still, it’s a cool sight to see in person. It certainly looks more impressive in real life than in pictures.

Little Taiwan

After checking out the Twin Hearts Stone Weir, make your way to the nearby “Little Taiwan.” As can see, it’s called that because, well, the platform is in the shape of Taiwan. Because of it’s close proximity to Twin Hearts, Little Taiwan is the 2nd most popular attraction on the island.

This natural attraction is also located in the Cimei Township of Penghu Island. From Twin Hearts, it can be a short 5 minute drive by motorbike. However, if you must walk, it shouldn’t take more than 20 minutes.

And while you’re likely able to see Twin Hearts during high tide, Little Taiwan is only visible during low tide. So make sure you check with the locals on your trip. If you’re going with a tour, they’ll know exactly when to bring you here.

The Many Temples of Penghu

Penghu Island isn’t home to just one temple, but to many gorgeous and distinctive temples. Each temple, unique in its own right. So if you have the time, I highly recommend checking all of them out! They’re all worth a visit.

Tianhou (Mazu) Temple

Also known as Tianhou Temple, the Queen of Heavens Temple is the most famous on the island. Located in Magong City of Penghu, Tianhou was built in 1592 – making it the oldest temple in all of Taiwan. What’s amazing is that the temple was able to stay in such good condition for over 400 years.

The Taoist temple was built to serve the tao goddess of the sea. Apparently, it’s been destroyed twice by Japanese pirates. And previously, it was called the Niangma Temple and Tianfei Temple.

Guanyin Temple

Also in Magong, the Guanyin Temple is a Buddhist temple that historically helped the integration of buddhism with taoism. In other words, the temple was used to worship both Guanyin (Buddhist god) and Long-Wang (Tao god). It was founded over 100 years after Tianhou by the Qing Dynasty.

PRO TIP: Today, Guanyin serves as the location where thousands of tourists gather for the Firework Festival from the months of April to June. If you’re in Taiwan during these months, it’s a great time to head to the island for this marvelous event.

Shuixian & Chenghuang Temples

Perhaps the smallest of the three, Shuixian Temple is a Taoist temple built the same time as Guanyin. Although it’s an old temple, it’s been erected twice in its life time.

Similarly, Chenghuang Temple is also a taoist temple that primarily serves Chenghuangye – the Taoist god of the underworld (think, Hades). For this reason, this temple is often referred to as the “city god” temple.

Crab Museum

I promise, it’s more interesting than it sounds. What better way to enjoy the Taiwanese island than to marvel at the various species of crabs found in nearby waters? I’m only half kidding.

In all seriousness, the crab museum is a great bang for the buck. And if you’re traveling on a hot summer day, it’s a great way to escape the heat (yes, there’s air conditioning). What I thought was the most interesting was the crab feeding “shows.”

Staff would cut apples into small slices and let the feeding frenzy begin! Where else in the world would you be able to see crabs feast on apples? It’s kind of cute, but weirdly amazing at the same time. Oh, and there’s some shrimps too.

If you’re traveling with kids, the Penghu Crab Museum is the perfect place to take them. While I don’t have kids yet, there were plenty of excited children who seemed to be having a blast.

Shan Shui Local Beach

When traveling to a tropical island, the beach is a must. Penghu’s Shan Shui beach is no exception. As expected, it’s a quiet and pristine beach. If you can, I highly suggest heading there in the morning to beat the crowd and enjoy the serene beauty of the beach.

The sand is white, and the water is blue and shallow. It’s a fantastic place for the kids to play. Plus, there are some nearby parks if you want to get away from the sand (why would you?). This beach is far from the normal “tourist foot path” so it’s don’t expect your tour to take you.

Best Sunset in Taiwan

Some of Taiwan’s famous mountains are world renowned for their mesmerizing sunrises. But at Penghu Island, the sunset is one of the best you’ll see in this country.

Make sure to check the local weather report to see when the sun is expected to set. Head on over 30 minutes before the sunset time and I promise you won’t regret it.

Stand Up Paddle Board

If you’re looking for an active thing to do, try stand up paddle boarding (SUP) on this beach. You can rent these boards from a few local shops around the area and go for a stroll through the clear blue waters.

You’re essentially standing up on a larger-than-normal surfboard and maneuvering with a single paddle. It took me a while to get used to balancing, but once you get the hang of it, SUP is super fun. Just make sure you have an extra set of clothes because you’re likely to fall at some point.

Swimming at the Beach

The Shan Sui beach is a great place to go for a swim. There are few people (even on weekends) so you’re not swimming in a crowded area. However, it’s not a great place to go snorkeling. Instead, I’d like to bring a floatie with me and just relax while lounging in the water.

There are some showering stalls near the beach if you want to rinse the sand and salt water off yourself after you finish your swim. And if you get hungry or thirsty, there will be a few vendors nearby that sell basic refreshments and snacks.

Penghu Basalt Columns

Apparently, Penghu Islands is made up of nearly a hundred islands made up of several layers of basalt lava flow. The result is an amazing sight, as columns of these lava rocks appear like they’re stacked in a uniformed manner.

According to Taiwanese geologists, the basalt was formed through millions of years. The lava would rise up from the sea or from underground fissures, ultimately cooling off and forming the basalt formations. What’s even more impressive is that the oldest known basalt is roughly 17 millions years old!

And although they’re all over the Penghu island region, there’s a dedicated Basalt Reservation Area tourists can go to check out. The easiest and best way to view the basalt columns is with a boat. There will be plenty of boats that frequently go on tours to sight see different columns throughout the reservation area.

Not all basalts require a boat to view. For example, in Siyu township, you’ll be able to find plenty of basalt columns on land. Just make sure you know where you’re going. Asking a local or going with a tour group sounds like a good idea.

Motorbike Across Penghu Great Bridge

The Penghu Great Bridge that connects Siyu Island to Baisha Main Island is a remarkable achievement in Taiwanese architecture. According to the locals, there was an old bridge that was built too low. As a result, cars, people and parts of the bridge would be swept away during typhoons.

The Penghu Great Bridge is the third iteration of that bridge. It’s roughly one and a half miles long (2478 meters), which makes it a fairly long bridge.

If you’re traveling around the island by motorbike, I’d highly suggest taking this bridge even if you don’t need to get to the other side. It’s just so fun and the view is amazing on a nice sunny day.

PRO TIP: Next to the bridge is the famous Yi Jia Cactus Ice Cream that can really only be found in Penghu (at least I’ve never seen it anywhere else in Taiwan). So if anything, this can be your excuse to travel on the famous Penghu bridge.

Witness the Sea Split Apart

Kueibishan is a really interesting place, especially if you can get there at the right time. For part of the day, you’re looking at a small island just off the shores. However, when it’s low-tide, the “magic” happens. Just like with Moses and the Red Sea, the sea opens up and tourists are able to cross to the island.

Getting there before low tide is ideal because you get to actually see the sea “move apart.” Without seeing that part, you’re essentially just walking on rocks and shells. It’s just not as cool unless you see the before and after. But if you want to come later and watch the path gradually close, that’s pretty awesome too.

There are a lot of mixed reviews for this attraction. Some call it the “best attraction on Penghu Island.” Others call it a waste of time and nothing special. I’m guessing the ones that didn’t enjoy this didn’t come at the right time. So, plan your trip to Kueibishan accordingly!

Go Squid Fishing at Night

One of the most unique local activities you can do on Penghu Island is…fishing. You’re not fishing for fish, but rather for squid. And apparently, this generally takes place at night because that’s when the squids comes out.

If this sounds like a great time to you, make sure to head to Penghu Island sometime between June and the Mid Autumn Festival (September/October). They generally stop this activity by the time of the festival, so make sure to check the dates as it can vary by year.

There are many ports around the island that can take you to go squid fishing. For example, you can find these boats at the Sougang, Chitou, Shagang and Chikan fishing ports.

You take these boats out at night and they light up the water for you. It’s a pretty interesting experience but can be kind of uneventful if you don’t catch anything at all. After catching the squid, the staff usually makes squid sashimi and noodles for you to enjoy!

How to Get to Penghu Island

Penghu Island is no longer a “secret.” Because their economy lives off tourism, they’ve really made it easy and convenient to get there. There’s even a small airport for domestic flights!

There will be domestic planes that leave daily from main cities, such as Taichung, Tainan, Chiayi, Kaohsiung and of course, Taipei. Depending on where you’re flying from, it should take between 30 to 50 minutes to get to the island.

For how far you’re going, flights are not that cheap. However, if you plan to do a quick one-night trip, then flying is the best way to maximize your time on the island.

If flying isn’t your thing or you’re willing to spend more time to save some cash, Penghu Island is also easily accessible by ferry. In fact, the ferry should be less than half of what you’d have to spend flying. And if you want to bring a motorbike, you can pay extra to bring it on the ferry.

There are two ferries that head to Penghu Island. The first one leaves from Chiayi between 10 AM to 10:30 AM daily. But if you’re in Kaohsiung, you can catch the ferry that leaves 8:30 – 9 AM daily. On Wednesday and Fridays, there’s a night ferry that leaves Kaoshiung at 11 PM.

Where to Stay in Penghu

If you plan to stay overnight on Penghu, there are a lot of great options for accommodations. In the past years, the government did a great job making the island “tourist-friendly.” And of course, that means building many hotels and hostels.

For ultimate luxury, you’ll want to book at the Four Points Hotel by Sheraton. The hotel is located in Magong and has an amazing view of the harbor. If you go during the off-season, you’re likely to find some great deals that won’t break your wallet.

The Discovery Hotel is the other 5-star hotel on the island. Since it’s right next to the Four Points, you get that same view of the Magong Nanhai Wharf. Known for their delicious breakfast and great amenities, the Discovery Hotel is the perfect place to stay for families.

Budget hotels such as the Green Hotel offers the upscale feel without the luxury price. Rooms are spacious and clean with a modern design. Plus, it’s just a 15-minute ride from Penghu Airport. Some rooms at the Green Hotel also have a kids slide built into the room! Great for families with small kids.

The Rainbow Hotel is a relative new boutique hotel. You’ll have easy access to the beautiful waters, as the hotel is located on the beach front. Plus, it’s just a few minutes walk from the famous Tianhou Temple. As you can guess, the location is the best part.

Because the island is so small, it really doesn’t matter where you plan to stay. However, if you have a choice, I’d always stick with Magong township. It’s literally in the center of the main islands and there’s a lot going on around the city. And because it’s next to all the main roads, traveling by car or motorbike is easy too.

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